Finally running

Mr Orange is running and driving again. I spent the long weekend getting the motor and transmission back in. There are still some issues, but it is almost drivable.
More to come…

How To: Holley Crank Trigger

Holley PART# 556-115 is a good way to get accurate timing on your small block Ford. It uses a 35 tooth (36-1) trigger wheel and a hall effect sensor.
If you follow Holley’s instructions you will end up with several issues:

  • The crank trigger will hit your water pump
  • The pulleys will be moved outward requiring all accessories to be moved out as well.
  • The pulleys will not rest on the spacer hub, with the potential for it to wobble.

With some machining all three can be avoided.


Start by removing 1/4″ off the face of the spacer, but LEAVE THE HUB. The photo is hard to see.


The crank wheel also needs to be machined. There is a lip on the outside which will keep the wheel from sliding all the way on to the spacer. After the lip is removed it will fit flush against the spacer as shown.


The water pump needs to have some material removed so the wheel won’t hit it. I removed much more than this on an old pump and there was no problem hitting a water passage. It would clear fine with less material removed than shown here.


Also the two spacers that hold the sensor need to be shortened so that the sensor lines up with the edge of the wheel.


Final images show the results.

Crank Trigger Progress and Painted Plenum

Despite the heat I’ve made some progress on Mr Orange. I had to get the Holley crank trigger wheel and my pulley spacer machined. Waiting on getting them back from the machine shop. Here is the bracket that holds the hall effect sensor.


I also painted the plenum.

Transmission Update

After great debate about what to do with the failed C4 in “Mr Orange” I have decided to just get the C4 rebuilt. I considered a T5 or AOD swap, but both would have been too much work and fabrication.

In the interest of finally getting to drive the car, this is the easiest path to victory.

Home made exhaust

Old mufflers welded to reducers and flex pipe behind that. Sounds pretty bad, but finally getting good AFR readings from o2 sensors…

Dash Finished


Dash is done. I still need to hook up the door ajar and headlight warning lights. The speedo won’t work until I have the AOD trans in or I get a VSS for the C4. Still not sure what direction to take there.
Pretty happy with the install. The oil gauge isn’t set back into the dash the way the others are. I tried to print a bezel, but it just didn’t turn out right.

Rear Disk Brakes (and 5 lug)


Two of the major problems with the Mustang II are the 4 lug wheels and the crappy brakes. I solved this with new axles, and a disk brake kit from Summit Racing: RSD-ZDCDS03. I was able to use the factory parking brake cable.
I will write up a full story with instructions when the system is finished.

Dash Update


New dash is coming together. Have five gauges mounted, just need to mount oil pressure and finish warning lights. I 3d printed brackets to hold the gauges behind the original locations.

Mustang II EFI Running

The EFI is running ok so far, a SERIOUS exhaust leak is keeping me from tuning much. AFR readings are super erratic. It really needs a trip to the muffler shop. Also brakes still suck and I don’t know why.